Ceramic and carbon film fitted indoors, in a dust-controlled bay.
Legal on the front doors, as dark as you like at the rear.
Most cars are dropped in the morning and back the same afternoon.
Window tinting is a film bonded to the inside of your glass. Good film rejects infrared heat rather than simply darkening the window, which is why a light ceramic film can outperform a much darker cheap one. In California the front doors must stay above 70% light transmission, so film quality is the only lever you have up front.
This is the single most useful thing to understand before spending money.
A window looks dark because the film blocks visible light. That says nothing about heat.
Heat arrives as infrared, which is invisible. Rejecting it is a property of what the film is made from, not how dark it looks.
A nearly clear ceramic film routinely beats a very dark dyed one on cabin temperature.
All four look similar on the glass. They behave nothing alike over time.
A dye layer that absorbs light. Cheapest option available.
Rejects little heat and fades toward purple under Los Angeles sun.
Reasonable only if you are selling the car shortly.
Real metal particles reflect heat well and the color is stable.
The metal also blocks radio signals crossing the glass.
On a car with phone-as-key and glass-embedded antennas, that is a problem.
Carbon particles instead of metal. No signal interference, no fading.
Good heat rejection and a flat black finish most people prefer.
The sensible choice when ceramic is more than the car warrants.
Non-conductive ceramic nanoparticles reject the most infrared.
Can be light enough to be legal up front and still do real work.
Best optical clarity, which matters most at night.
Manufacturers publish several figures and only one is honest on its own.
VLT is visible light transmission. It is what California regulates and what makes the window look dark.
IRR is infrared rejection, sometimes quoted at a single favorable wavelength to produce a big number.
TSER is total solar energy rejected, covering ultraviolet, visible and infrared together. That is what heats your cabin.
Dust that lands between the film and the glass during fitting is trapped there for good.
Every window cleaned and decontaminated. Any residue left behind shows through the film permanently.
Film plotted to your exact vehicle rather than trimmed with a blade against your trim.
Curved rear glass is shrunk in one continuous piece so there is no seam across the window.
Film laid and the slip solution squeegeed out to the edges. This is where the labor actually is.
Edges inspected under raking light before you collect, and we tell you the cure period.
Front doors. Not a choice. California requires above 70% combined, so the film must be nearly clear.
Rear sides and rear glass. Any darkness is legal. Most people choose between 20% and 35%.
Windshield. A tinted strip across the top four inches, or a clear ultraviolet film across the whole screen.
Glass roof. No legal limit, and the most effective single panel to treat for heat.
Quality film carries a lifetime warranty against the ways film fails on its own.
Warranties run through the installing shop, so keep the paperwork with your service records.
On most products the cover transfers if you sell the car.
Leave the windows up while the film cures. Rolling one down early can lift an edge.
Ammonia-free cleaner and a soft cloth. Ammonia attacks the film and clouds it.
Slight haze and small water pockets are trapped moisture. They clear on their own.
It is not air conditioning. It reduces heat entering the cabin. It does not cool a car that is already hot.
It will not make front windows dark. Not legally in California, whatever another shop tells you.
It is not bulletproof. Film holds broken glass together. It does not stop the glass breaking.
It cannot fix scratched glass. Film is applied over what is there and follows the surface underneath.
Our bay is at 5035 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90027, in Los Feliz.
We fit indoors, always. Airborne dust under film cannot be removed afterwards.
Cars come to us from Hollywood, West Hollywood, Silver Lake, Beverly Hills, Koreatown, Glendale, Burbank and Downtown.
Call (323) 942-4919 with the year, make and model.
Most cars are a single day, and many are ready in a few hours. Larger SUVs, glass roofs and any car needing old film removed take longer, and we tell you which when you book.
Yes, quoted separately because it is slow work. The adhesive has to be softened and lifted without damaging the defroster grid bonded into the rear glass.
Yes, and most people do because the law forces it. Be aware the two will not match exactly in tone, which is visible from outside at some angles.
No. We fit to the California limit on front doors. A shop that agrees is selling you a citation plus the cost of stripping it off again.
Yes, and it is the most effective single panel for heat because it faces directly upward. It is priced separately from the side glass.
The film goes with the glass and is not covered by the warranty. We can re-tint the replacement pane to match the rest of the car.
Usually, if we know the original product. If not, we will be honest about whether the match will be close enough to live with.
Yes, and flat glass is easier than modern compound curves. Older seals need care, and we check them before starting.
It varies week to week. Call with your dates and we will give you a real slot rather than a maybe.
Not in the bay, for dust and safety reasons. The whole point of the closed bay is that nothing extra comes in with you.
Send the year, make and model with what you want done.
You get a figure for your car, not a price band.
Skip to content
